I have been feeling more like an Arequipeño lately. Besides buying a Melgar fútbol jersey, I have started taking the buses! The buses here are quite a thrill, not for the faint of heart. First, they are quite small, many of them converted vans with bus-style seating, and one wheel in the grave. They fly along apparently in some sort of race with the taxis, with the side door open and one person hanging halfway out yelling the destinations of the bus's route. There are many routes and many buses that carry the same route, so at most stops, a bus comes along every 20 seconds or so. When yours comes, signal the "yeller" with a strong wave and hop on before it drives off again; they don't wait long. At your stop, be sure to tell the yeller that you want off, or at least give a good conspicuous head nod if your bus Spanish is rusty (mine is improving). I think you say "baja aca". Peruvians on foot are always very kind and patient, but the bus waits for no one. In fact, the speed and reckless haste with which the buses operate stand in stark contrast to the rest of the culture in Arequipa.
I like riding the buses for several reasons. One - the cost. We thought taxis were incredibly cheap - and they are, by American standards. To ride all the way across town won't cost you more than a dollar. However, the same trip by bus is only about 20 cents. Secondly, I feel lest like a tourist. That's always good. Third, it's great for conversation! Nothing like "Buenos dias! Soy un estudiante y necesito practicar mi castellano," to put oneself in a learner's position and open up interesting conversations. I have by no means mastered the system - just learned how to get from home to the Institute and back again. Maybe someday we'll play bus roulette and get ourselves lost.
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